Frequently Asked Questions

Yes, our new Heritage Hand Quilting Frame has been carefully designed to fold flat for storage, without removing the quilt. It also features an accessory tray and a high quality work lamp.

The Voyager was introduced as an economical option for an extended arm, hand-guided machine. It is intended for hobby use.
The Voyager is a stretched industrial sewing machine. The process to stretch the machine includes cutting it and installing an ugly structural extension. Hinterberg then hid the ugly extension with a body putty. They shaped the body putty to look like the rest of the industrial machine and painted to match the original machine.
Over time many of these stretched machines developed small cracks where the body putty receded from the original machine. Mostly this is caused by the extended drying period of this type of compound. The small crack is simply cosmetic, it is not a structural defect. The small crack does not interfere with the performance of the machine.
The only time this crack has been associated with a structural defect has been when there is damage from shipping or handling.
If you have this cosmetic flaw, you have done nothing wrong. You do not need to do anything. Keep using your machine and improving your skills. Most of all have fun finishing your quilts.

Yes, we have plenty of options for you on this one. The Hinterberg product line was purchased by Nolting Longarm Quilting Machines. www.nolting.com Nolting has been making very favorable trades toward the larger machines that Nolting makes. Usually the trade value for a Voyager is 50% of your original purchase price. Look up your original purchase price so you know how much you will receive in credit when you trade. Call us at the factory for more information.

Of course you can!

Round Hoops have been successfully used for centuries for every kind of needlework. Nearly all needlework is done on woven fabric. Round hoops give you even tension and grip firmly. Our hoops hold fabric without slipping, and used correctly, do not distort the weave in any way. It is easier to reach all areas of the hoop with a round hoop. There are no corners to get in your way. Thousands of quilters all over the world prefer round hoops over oval or square.

We suggest that if you are not able to work on your unfinished quilt for any length of time, that you take it out of the hoop, so as not to create creases in the fabric.

What is the difference between hand quilting frames?

Our Heritage Frame is a hand-quilting. These frames are constructed from highest quality, furniture grade select white ash hardwood. The Heritage has three quilt rollers for no-baste quilting and everything you need to make prize-winning quilts. It will fold flat, with or without the quilt mounted, for easy storage against a wall or in a closet. It also has large ratchet wheels for finer tension adjustment, and has a wider range of height and tilt adjustment. It will tilt the quilt surface to a vertical position for storage, or just to admire your handiwork. This also keeps pets from sleeping on your quilt and stretching it.

We designed a frame for every quilter in every price range. Both our kits, the Easy Build Kit and the Easy Build Plus are made with the same high quality construction and no-baste features found in our other frames. With the Easy Build Kit, we supply all the hardware and the small hardwood parts. You buy the lumber to build the larger, main parts of the frame and three pieces of 1 ¼" thinwall metal conduit for the rollers. With the Easy Build Plus we supply everything except three pieces of 1 ¼" thinwall metal conduit for the rollers and one piece of 1 x 8 lumber for the trestle.

How long does it take to receive my order?

Normally we can ship your frame within a couple days of ordering it. The factory is located in Wisconsin so shipping time is two days in the Midwest, three days to the east coast, four days to the far south and west, and five days to the west coast and northwest. Frames shipped to Alaska and Hawaii usually take less than two weeks. For international shipments, please call our toll-free number for details. We do have dealers in several European countries

Can I get even tensioning using ratchet wheels?

Definitely!
Large Ratchet wheels allow the quilt to be rolled easily, and the tension to be tightened or loosened easily, in very small increments. Each layer is tensioned separately, allowing for even tensioning of backing and top. This is important because your top has hundreds of seams, and will stretch much easier than the backing which may have few or no seams.

Should I buy a Hoop or a Frame?

Usually this decision is based on two factors: The most important is space. Do you have enough space to set up an 8 foot by three foot frame? If not, you may wish to consider the Homestead Hoop right away. The other factor is style of quilting. If you are used to a hand held hoop and like to stitch only in one direction, a hoop is your best choice. Our hoops rotate 360 degrees so you can tilt and turn your work any which way. The 14" Lap Hoop is a good choice for small projects, other embroidery, or travel. If your space is limited, but you still prefer a full size frame, the Heritage frame does disassemble very easily, without removing your quilt from the rollers. The Easy Build takes a bit more time, but has the capability of tilting the top (work surface) to a vertical position for storage while still set up. If you use a frame, your quilt is rolled up off the floor and once mounted on the frame is there until completion. Tension is better and basting is nearly eliminated.

How do I attach my quilt to the Frame?

There are several methods, but basically the quilt is basted or pinned to a strip of sturdy cloth which is permanently attached to the rollers. Depending on whether you have metal or wood rollers, the cloth can be tacked, stapled, glued, or taped to the rollers. It need not be heavy duty cloth and should not be stiff. Each frame includes instructions on how to make and attach the cloth aprons or you may order the cloth aprons from us.The edges of the quilt cannot be permanently attached to the frame, because it is rolled and they would have to be reattached often.

Use this link for instructions on how to attach your quilt to the Hand frame.
Attaching Your Quilt to the Hand Frame
Use this link for instructions on how to attach your quilt to the Machine frame.
Attaching your quilt to the Machine frame.
To view these files you will need Adobe Acrobat Reader. If you don't have it already, you can get this program from the Adobe Website: click here to enter their site.

What is the difference between the Easy Build Kit and The Easy Build Plus?

Both the Easy Build "Basic" kit and "Plus" kit produce the same finished frame. The Basic kit includes all of the hardware for the frame, many of the small, intricate wooden parts that would be difficult to make on your own and the plans to build the rest of the frame. You will need to purchase 2x6 pine boards to create the end frames. It involves cutting and drilling the end frames to the correct finished size. Then you add the 1x8 trestle board and the 1-1/4" metal conduit rollers to complete the frame. The Plus Kit includes the everything in the basic kit PLUS the completed end frames. All you need to do is assemble the end frames, then add the 1x8 trestle and rollers to make the frame your desired length. In both kits, the plans are very clear. A minimum of tools are needed to build the Easy Build Kit. It is however a woodworking project, so it is necessary to have some knowledge of woodworking techniques.

Both frames include instructions for mounting the quilt on the frame.

If I don't put a finish on my frame, will the acid in the wood damage my quilt?

In 28 years of making quilting frames, there has never been any complaints of staining of fabric on unfinished hoops or frames. There is nothing in the ash that will harm your fabric. Also, on a frame, the quilt fabric doesn't touch the wood rollers. The ash or metal quilt rollers are covered by the leader fabric used to attach the quilt to the frame. We do recommend putting a finish on the frame to protect the wood from fingerprints and scratches.

Which size hoop should I buy?

Consider these suggestions; You have the largest quilting area with the 29" hoop. This means that you will have to move your fabric in the hoop less often. However, it may be difficult to reach to the center of the 29" hoop. Most quilters find the 22" hoop most convenient for large projects because they can reach the center easily. The 29" inch hoop will keep more of larger projects off the floor. (Another hint: keep a sheet with your quilt to lay on the floor under it when you are working. The quilt will stay cleaner. If you have pets, you may wish to throw a sheet over the quilt when you are out of the room. What is it about cats? They love to sleep on quilts.)

Why do you specify metal poles for the Easy Build Kits?

Wood is a wonderful building material, but in long lengths it tends to warp.Thinwall conduit is strong, straight, easy to find, inexpensive, galvanized so it doesn't rust, and is a standard size. We include wood caps for the ends of the rollers to finish them off nicely. Once a quilt is mounted on the frame, you don't see the metal anyway.

Will it hurt to leave the wood unfinished?

Rest Assured, all frames can be used unfinished. Generally you put a finish on your frame for cosmetic reasons, and to protect the wood from finger prints and foot prints which over time may begin to show. White Ash has a beautiful open grain, which looks very much like oak. It can be stained and finished easily using inexpensive interior finishes available at your hardware or building center.

We actually recommend not finishing the poles. Our Heritage Hand Quilting frame uses kiln-dried white ash for the poles. Contrary to some opinions, there is nothing in the wood to damage your quilt. Also when you attach a cloth apron to the poles, the quilt does not even touch the wood.

Which sewing machines do you recommend for the 'Original Machine Frame'?

There are many machines that work wonderfully with the frame. You do not need a machine that has all the bells and whistles; infact all you need is a machine that sews a single straight stitch. The frame will accommodate a machine with up to an 11" throat, so to optimize your sewing area a machine with an 11" throat would be best. Consider the fact that one of the poles runs through the throat area of the machine. You lose the diameter of the pole plus the space taken up by the quilt rolled up on that roller as you sew further along. If you have a machine with a 7" throat by the time you have a queen size quilt rolled up inside the throat, you would only have 2" of sewing space left. That can create for a very frustrating situation. There are several machines on the market today with throats of 9" and larger that would work nicely. The Nolting MAQ14 www.nolting.com machine has an 14" throat and is perfect for getting the maximum sewing pleasure out of your Original Machine Frame.